A surfing Swede???
I have a slight tendency to get "addicted" to physical activities so when I borrowed my friends surfboard a few days ago I had a voice in the back of my head telling me that this could be something I liked.
I have always felt bad for not giving surfing a proper go. I have lived in New Zealand for 3 years and in Sydney for almost 5 years. I went once in New Zealand during heavy swell on a 6' board.
I know the reason I never did that well had to do with the board and the conditions. At 95kg and 6'2 tall I spent the next 15 minutes trying to get out of the waves. Good fun, but not a success story. You can see the photo of me getting out of the surf in my image gallery under sport and adventure. The smile you see is not "yes i did it" more a "I am alive and on solid ground".
Now you might think, does this guy never learn? When it comes to sport... NO I don't and that is what makes it so much fun.
After playing around in Bondi on my friends 7' board I was hooked. I only had about 30 minutes in the water but the following day I went and purchased my first board, a 7' soft board that will be my entertainment for the summer.
I was hoping to get some images and videos up on the blog over the next few weeks to show my progression as a surfer. Today was my first go with my own board and I succeeded to catch a few quite nice waves so I am thrilled to see where I will be in a few weeks.
I will keep you posted. Exercise should be a lifestyle...